Food Review: Bandra Born 2.0 Offers A Fresh Twist On Comfort Food With Bold Flavours And Unique Creations

The 2.0 version of Bandra Born has managed to capture the interest of young hoppers while a few old timers are a little upset that their fave breakfast place doesn’t serve their favourites anymore.

Chef Gresham, co-founder and culinary head, has whipped up an interesting menu — food and bar — which does justice to herbivorous and carnivorous. “Didn’t want anyone to complain,” says Gresham. “With 15 starters and four mains each, nobody can say we are biased towards any eaters,” he explains.

The food menu, simple yet complex, is surely enticing for all. As is the cocktail menu. They claim to be the first Mahura bar in the country. I am not aware of any other in the country, so we can safely reiterate as it is surely the only one currently in Mumbai. Mahura or Mahua (the known name in most parts and to the oldies who love Hindi films) is a liqueur named after the flower with the same name native to Northeast India. The spirit on the rocks has a smoky aroma that lends it the starting smoky, mezcal like taste; but it finishes off sweet.

Mahura mule

Bandra Born offers 10 cocktails using Mahura distilled with 100-year-old method in their Classics Reclaimed section. As the name suggests, most of these are classic cocktails made using Mahura instead of one of the usual spirits. Tribal Negroni, for example, is made using Mahura instead of gin. Mahura is a great replacement for gin in the negroni and the vetiver bitters that they drizzle in it add to the flavour and aroma. The Mahura Mule is a good choice for people who like their ginger ale, 60ml mahura mixed with ginger ale with a lime squeezed in it is quite refreshing. Kimad is perfect for the season. When the evenings get a little cold, this warm, toddy like drink warms you up with its spices and aroma.

Grandmother Fanny’s Prawn Dish

What really intrigued me was the ‘non-veg butter’. So, trying that was a must. Butter-made with bacon and prawn fat — XO butter — was delicious and went well with the homemade brun and pav. The pav goes well with the East Indian Crab Curry as well. The delectable crab meat is scooped out, cooked with east Indian masalas and served with a brick of croissant. The gravy is topped with finely cut spring onion and a drizzle of curry oil that makes it absolutely flavoursome. While the croissant is nice, the curry tastes better with the soft, homemade pav.

Dill-i-rhum and Complex Kela

“Our masalas, breads… everything is made in-house,” informs Chef Rajan, who is helpful in choosing my fare.

Zig Zag Nights

Roasted Pumpkin Dumpling and Beet’s Meat is a great choice for the vegetarians as is Zucchini Ribbons. The Pumpking Dumplings rest in a little spicy, but tasty, bottled masala base sauce with fried onions adding crunch to the smoothness. Beet’s Meat is an innovative salad. Beetroot is dehydrated after cooking and served on a bed of whey and cream. Green apple and dill add to the flavours.

Dense Chocolate Mousse + Passion Fruit Glaze

Seafood lovers do try the Grandmother Fanny’s Prawn Dish. Based on Gresham’s grandmother’s recipe, this prawn curry has raw mango and amboshi (dried raw mango) in it to add the tang. Anglo Indian Coorgi Pork served with marinated Pomelo is a treat to your palate. Their server, Geniius, suggests that one should have with kanji to get the best out of it.

Beet’s Meat

The salad is made from imported pork belly and has distinct flavours of pandan and basil. Do try the Marrow Chilli Cheese Toast if you don’t mind eating beef.

Kadak Nimbu Sharbat

Do not miss the King Cabbage from the mains of veg. Slow roasted for more than 12 hours overnight at low temperatures, the cabbage is then charred after you order it. It rests on a bed of kale puree, a generous dose of salt created after blending dehydrated cabbage and pink salt is sprinkled on it, the server pours a brown butter sauce on it to finish it off. The textures and taste of this dish are awesome and even a hardcore nonveg person or a cabbage hater will also like it.

Mutton Pan Roll

Choose Complex Kela as a dessert. Don’t fret banana haters. It’s a great banana dessert with some cream cheese, white chocolate ganache, pistachio crumble finished off with a dill oil drizzle and pairs superbly with Dill-i-rhum, which has a clarified rum with banana and dill saccharum. Chocolate lovers go for the Dense Chocolate Mousse that’s served with a passion fruit glaze varied crackers.

Average cost: ` 3000 (with alcohol)

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