Mumbai: Mumbai’s beloved vada pav might soon get pricier, with the Brihanmumbai Municipal Corporation’s (BMC) recent directive to phase out wood and coal in commercial kitchens potentially impacting the supply of pav, the soft bread roll that is a key ingredient of the city’s iconic street food.
The BMC has mandated that by July 8, all restaurants, dhabas and bakeries must transition to green fuels like electricity, CNG, PNG and LPG to curb air pollution. The move comes in compliance with a Bombay High Court order aimed at improving air quality and protecting public health. However, this directive has sparked concerns among Mumbai’s traditional bakeries and Irani cafés, many of which rely on wood-fired ovens to bake pav and other baked goods.
Potential Disruption Of Pav’s Supply
The India Bakers’ Association (IBA) recently highlighted the potential disruption to pav supply, especially affecting the vada pav ecosystem. The association, in discussions with MLA Rahul Narwekar, stressed that several bakeries have been using wood-fired ovens for over a century. They argued that shifting to alternative fuels could not only alter the taste and texture of the bread but also make the baking process economically unviable.
Former BJP Corporator Writes To CM Fadnavis
Supporting this stance, former BJP corporator Makarand Narwekar has urged Chief Minister Devendra Fadnavis to grant heritage status to Mumbai’s iconic Irani cafés and bakeries. Narwekar emphasized that these establishments, integral to the city’s culinary heritage since the 19th century, deserve exemptions similar to historic eateries in New York and preserved windmills in the Netherlands. He argued that preserving Mumbai’s culinary legacy should be prioritised alongside pollution control measures.
The opposition to the ban is gaining political traction. Samajwadi Party MLA Rais Shaikh has called for an urgent hearing for bakers, Irani cafés, and bakeries before the BMC’s air pollution control committee. Critics of the directive argue that the BMC should have engaged with key stakeholders before enforcing such a sweeping change.
KP Irani of the Indian Bakers’ Association voiced concerns over safety and feasibility. He pointed out that traditional dome-shaped baking structures, typically spanning 150 square feet, are not designed for electric ovens. Furthermore, Irani cautioned that alternatives like LPG could pose major safety risks, with each bakery potentially needing a bank of 10 LPG cylinders. He also highlighted the inconsistency of PNG infrastructure across Mumbai, adding to operational challenges, reported news agency PTI.
As the deadline approaches, stakeholders are hoping for a balanced approach that addresses pollution concerns while safeguarding Mumbai’s cultural and culinary traditions and ensuring that the humble vada pav remains accessible to all.